Quebec Day 12

Start: Tadoussac
End: La Malbaie
Mileage/cumulative: 47.82 / 520 
Elevation Ascended/cumulative: 4,088 / 15,998
Weather: Start – Cloudy 55 degrees / Finish – Drizzle 55 degrees
Flat tires (entire group) day/cumulative: 0 / 4

With the experience this group has checking weather apps and tracking conditions over a wide area, we should all qualify as amateur meteorologists.  Yesterday, the forecast called for rain on our entire route today. Then it changed to rain for only a small part of the day. Then it changed again to rain most of the day. All of that within an hour. When we went to sleep last night, everyone had their rain gear (helmet cover, waterproof gloves, rain jacket, rain pants, waterproof shoe covers) out and ready to go. When we woke up and discovered that the rain had blown through overnight, it was a big relief. We could stow the rain gear again, at least for now. 

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Quebec Days 10 and 11

Start: Riviere du Loup
End: Tadoussac
Mileage/cumulative: 26.76 / 472.18
Elevation Ascended/cumulative: 2,287 / 11,910
Weather: Start – Cloudy 45 degrees / Finish – Partly Cloudy 52 degrees
Flat tires (entire group) day/cumulative: 0 / 4

So here’s the thing about multi-day cycling trips. You can have an absolutely awful day, so dreadful that you want to get off your bike, toss it into a ravine, and swear off cycling forever. Then the next day you get back on that same bike you were ready to toss onto the scrap heap and you fall in love with it all over again. It may be the ultimate definition of a love-hate relationship.

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Quebec Day Nine

Start: Saint-Jean-Port-Joli
End: Riviere du Loup
Mileage/cumulative: 63.05 / 445.42
Elevation Ascended/cumulative: 1,696’ / 9,623’ 
Weather: Start – Sunny 43 degrees / Finish – Sunny 52 degrees
Flat tires (entire group) day/cumulative: 0 / 4

We’ve reached Rivière du Loop, our furthest northern point on the eastern shore of the St. Lawrence River. Getting here required riding through yet another day of headwinds, most of them a steady 15-20mph, for the entire 63-mile route. There was no stopping for a boulangerie. There was no stopping for lunch. The only reason to stop was to get a momentary break from the torturous wind before venturing back into it for seemingly endless miles. Bev said that she wouldn’t have stopped even if there had been a herd of baby goats handing out tacos. It was that bad. Oh, and then there were the hills at the end. It was not anyone’s best day on the bike.

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Quebec Day Eight


Start: Quebec City
End: Saint-Jean-Port-Joli
Mileage/cumulative: 60.84 / 382.37
Elevation Ascended/cumulative: 1,421’ / 7,927’ 
Weather: Start: Cloudy 54 degrees / Finish: Sunny 55 degrees
Flat tires (entire group) day/cumulative: 2 / 4

Every cycling trip like this has days where you just want to get from point A to point B. This was one of them.  It wasn’t due to a lack of things to stop and see or because the scenery was terrible. It was because we spent sixty miles riding straight into cold wind… again. It rained overnight in Quebec but stopped just before we rolled out and headed to the ferry terminal. We were grateful for that but we’ve run out of words to describe how much we hate the wind. We spend the next two days continuing northeast along the St. Lawrence before we cross the river again and arrive in Tadoussac, where we’ll reverse direction and head southwest. We’re hoping a change in direction will bring relief from the incessant, soul-sucking, punishing wind.

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Quebec Days Six and Seven

Start: St. Apollinaire
End: Quebec City
Mileage/cumulative: 30.26 / 321.53
Elevation Ascended/cumulative: 594’ / 6,506’
Weather: Start – Sunny 53 degrees / Finish – Sunny 55 degrees
Flat tires (entire group) day/cumulative: 1 / 2

Day Six was, thankfully, a short 30-mile day with the wind at our back for all but the first few miles. Our route took us along the St. Lawrence to Levis, where we took a five-minute ferry ride across the river to Quebec City, one of the oldest cities in North America.

The Algonquian people had originally named the area Kébec, meaning “where the river narrows”, because the Saint Lawrence narrows proximate to what is now Quebec City. Samuel de Champlain founded a French settlement here in 1608, and adopted the Algonquin name. The ramparts surrounding Old Quebec are the only fortified city walls remaining in the Americas north of Mexico. The city has a deep history, reflected in the architecture and if you know what you’re looking for, you can tell which buildings were French and which were British (the Brits are more symmetrical).

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