Three Days of Beauty in Glacier National Park

A few days before we planned to leave on our Montana road trip, a lightning strike started the Howe Ridge fire in Glacier National Park.  The fire quickly grew and the west side of the park was almost immediately shut down.  The subsequent reports led us to believe the fire would not be out prior to our arrival, the west side of the park would still be closed, and the air quality would be poor due to the smoke from fires in Montana, Washington, and Canada.

As we traveled west across Minnesota and North Dakota, we experienced poor air quality.  When we arrived in Montana, it was definitely still smoky.  In fact, our Airbnb on the west side (closer to the fire) was cancelled.  We decided to enjoy our planned time on the east side of the park as best as possible and then wing it for the few days prior to our dude ranch arrival date of August 28th.

On Day #1, we hiked Siyeh Pass, which is accessible off the Going-To-The-Sun road.  We arrived early in the morning to beat the potential crowds.  When we set out, our car was the only one in the parking lot.  The hike started out by traveling through an area exploding with berries which meant BEARS!  We were both armed with bear spray but we attempted to prevent a confrontation by clapping our hands, talking loudly, and singing songs as we hiked.  Our favorite ditty was, “Go Away, Bear, We Are Not Tasty”.  It will surely become a top ten hit. Continue reading “Three Days of Beauty in Glacier National Park”

A Typical Day On The Road

We booked our cross country bike trip with America By Bicycle, so all the logistics were handled by the company.  We just had to show up with our bicycles, a willingness to ride many miles, and a positive attitude.  Our group has over 45 riders, with many of us signed on to complete the entire coast to coast route.  We are supported by six very hard working ABB staff members, all of whom are passionate about cycling and providing us with an awesome experience.

So many crazy people in one place

Our day begins with breakfast and the time varies with the distance of that day’s ride.  For example, tomorrow’s 115 mile ride means breakfast will be at 5:30am.  Breakfast is usually at the hotel, but sometimes at a nearby restaurant.  (The cost of breakfast, as well as dinner and all food at the rest stops, is included in the cost of the trip.)   Breakfast is followed by “loading”,  a time period during which we are required to hand our luggage to a staff member to put in the trailer for transport to the next hotel.  We are each allowed two pieces of luggage, with a total weight of no more than 50 pounds.  Considering we have to lug it to/from our rooms every day, often while wearing bike shoes, Greg and I are happy we are far under the weight limit.

“Loading”

Once we watch our luggage go in the trailer and sign off on the rider sheet, we leave on our ride.  ABB staff will eventually head out on to the course, three on bicycles and one of the remaining three in each of the vehicles (two vans with trailers and one mechanics van).  Depending on the length of the ride, ABB staff will set up one or more rest stops to provide us with food, water, sunscreen, and extra clothing drop-off or pickup.  The mechanics van will sometimes be at the rest stop, but generally remains mobile to help anyone in need.  Every rider has to sign in at each rest stop.

A rest stop
Typical rest stop food

Following the provided route sheet (old school paper or a digital file for GPS devices, such as Garmin or I-Phones), we ride and ride and ride until we reach the next hotel.  (Ride distance varies by the day but on average, we will ride just over 80 miles a day.  We ride for 9 days in a row and then have one rest day.)  The trick is to not arrive at the hotel too early because the ABB trailer with the luggage generally does not arrive until around 2 to 3 pm.  Also, most hotels don’t have our rooms available until that time.  It makes no sense to zoom through the ride, only to sit and wait at the hotel in sweaty bike clothes.  Each rider must sign in at the hotel and every rider must be done riding before dark.

Late afternoon and evening are busy.  We attend “Rap” so staff members can talk about that day’s ride, provide us with the route sheet and any information  about the following day’s ride, and address any other business.  We also have “Mechanics Hour”, during which we can have the mechanics assist us with any bike issues.  We are also expected to clean and inspect our bikes.  Dinner, which is either catered by the hotel or provided at a local restaurant, is a must, as we are usually all starving by 6pm.  We also have to fit in laundry, errands, contacting family or friends, updating social media, writing blog posts, and so on before we climb into bed, thoroughly exhausted, only to get up early and do it all over again.

We are having the time of our lives!

The I DO Trail Run

June 23, 2013

It is a day I will never forget.  It was a day filled with joy, love, happiness, laughter, and friendship.  It was the day I married my best friend in the company of friends and family in a beautiful park.

When I agreed to marry Greg after he proposed in New Zealand, I assumed we would get married before a justice of the peace.  I just wanted to be married to him and didn’t need a big to-do.  And, I didn’t want to wear a dress!  When a friend suggested that those who loved us might want to share in the celebration of our union, I decided a small, drama free wedding would be fun.  Greg and I kicked around some ideas and decided a trail run, brief ceremony, and low-key reception at Lake Chabot Regional Park would be just the ticket.

The only problem:  I suffer from a fair amount of social anxiety.  The idea of planning and hosting a party causes my hands to sweat.  Way, way too stressful.  The answer:  my amazing neighbor, Marci, who can plan a successful party in seconds flat and never stresses about socializing.  That girl can walk into a room full of strangers, know everyone within minutes, and leave with several new life long friends.

Marci offered to plan our wedding.  Early on, she asked how many details I wanted to know.  As few as possible was my answer as I hoped being kept in the dark would help keep me from stressing out.  I was completely comfortable leaving it in her hands and just writing checks to cover the costs.  I happily completed my assigned tasks:  getting the running shirts for all involved in the wedding, ordering bracelets for favors, and sending out the E-vite.

When the day arrived, I quickly realized Marci and her assistants had gone above and beyond for us.  Wow!  Everything was beautiful and so much attention had been paid to the smallest of details.  I was speechless – yes, me….speechless.

I remember standing on the picnic table so I could address the crowd and get us all running/jogging/walking in the right direction.  As I looked out upon all our friends, it was impossible not to be overwhelmed with gratitude for all those who came out to celebrate with Greg and me.  I remember thinking I was so damn lucky and so, so grateful.  As someone who grew up in a home seriously lacking in love, I figured I must have done something right to be on the receiving end of all this love now.  It filled my heart beyond capacity.

The ceremony completely captured what Greg and I are as individuals and as a couple.  It was truly “us”.  My face hurt the next day from constantly smiling.  I think that was a sign of success.

My only regret is that Greg’s family was too far away to make the trip.  I know they were all there in spirit and their best wishes were beautifully woven into the ceremony by our talented officiant, Chris.  I look forward to celebrating with them this summer.

(Just for info: we will be posting a wedding day photo album on this blog when we are done gathering all the photos.  Feel free to subscribe to the blog so you get an e-mail notification when this happens.)

I just want to say thank you to everyone who made the day so awesome.  To Marci, Michael, Miguel, Chris O, Christie, Michelle, Dina, Ruth, Mary Kay, Chester, Leslie, Heather, Naomi, Sandie, Dave, Al, Chris W, and Vinnie.  To Team Clubsporters, RePeeters, Lake Chabot Running Peeps, HPD’ers, our biking buddies, Fab Five +1‘ers, GNO’ers, and all our other friends.  To Bosco, Bodie, Kora, Finn, Oscar, Maximus, Jack and Buddy (in spirit).  And, lastly, to my husband, who makes me feel loved every minute of every day.  It’s an honor to wear this ring.

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John Wayne Could Have Been A Kiwi

On day #2 of our two week adventure tour of New Zealand’s South Island in February 2013, we learned that the Kiwis are a tough bunch.  That day, our unsuspecting group of 12 set off to hike from the valley floor of the Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park to the Mueller Range.  Our first clue of the day to come presented itself when we reached a set of wooden steps.  “Just 1810 steps left” was carved into the bottom one.  Huh???  The track zig-zagged steeply up to Sealy Tarns, where we collapsed at the picnic table.

WTH?!?!?
WTH?!?!?
Half way done.
Half way done.
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Wendy in the middle of the boulder field.

Our guide Nick, who, at only 20 years old, bounded up and down the trail like a goat on speed, told us we were half way done with the uphill climb, with the next part being “easier”.  We then climbed an alpine route (not some easy to follow trail) that was marked with orange triangles on metal posts, every 100 meters or so.  It was steep and wound through alpine scrub to a large boulder field.  We had to scale some serious boulders, while keeping an eye out for the elusive orange markers, only to reach a large scree field.  It was an exhausting “two-steps up, one-slide back” climb to the top.

It was no easier coming down.  Many times, as my feet slipped out from under me or I tripped on a jagged rock, I was sure I was going to roll right down the mountain.  It didn’t help that the sun was blazing, with temperatures over 90 degrees F.

Greg and I both made it safely up and down the climb, as did about 2/3rds of our group.  Conversation at the bottom was all about how difficult the climb had been.  None of us recalled reading about such a challenging hike.  I pulled out our itinerary and discovered that this day hike was described simply as a “tough slog”.  That description can only be described as an understatement.

We noticed there were no warning signs at the foot of the trail.  No signs warning of the difficulty, the lack of water sources, or the need for a high level of fitness to safely complete the hike.  Being American, I would have expected a giant sign with all kinds of warnings, including images of a person rolling ass over tea kettle down the mountain or being squished to death by a giant boulder.  Certainly the words “proceed at your own risk” would have been prominently displayed.

We did see some people heading up who seemed quite unprepared for the physical challenge, the hot weather, or the possibility of a blink-of-an-eye change in weather.  In fact, one young girl approached us as we neared the finish and asked how long it would take to climb to Mueller Hut.  At 3:30pm, we told her it was about 4 hours away.  Off she went, dressed only in short shorts and a tank top, carrying a small backpack and no visible water.  Proceed at your own risk, dear.

This was our first exposure to New Zealand’s attitude of personal accountability.  Frankly, if you’re stupid enough to set out on a hike without proper knowledge of the track or proper equipment, then you deserve whatever happens to you.  And, don’t think you can sue someone for your own stupidity.  New Zealand’s legal systems bars most forms of personal litigation.

This is not a country where the coffee cups are (embarrassingly) printed with:  “Warning, contents are hot!”  In fact, we did not even sign a liability form prior to flying in the helicopter over Milford Sound, even though we landed on top of a glacier.  There, Amy and I, without a second thought, jumped over a crack in the snow.  It wasn’t until later that the pilot told us we probably shouldn’t go near the crack as it could widen without warning.  He wasn’t angry and seemed rather amused by our death-defying leaps.  However, I definitely got the feeling that if the crack widened and swallowed us whole, he would have just shrugged and said, “Well, what do you expect?  You were stupid enough to play around a giant crack in a glacier.”

Amy and I having fun tempting death.
Amy and I having fun tempting death.

At Key Summit, Greg and I decided we wanted to jog back down the trail to the bus, as most of the trail was perfect for running.  We checked with our guide, Amelia, who not only gave us permission, but handed us the bus keys.  I got the feeling she was impressed by our need to challenge ourselves but also expectant that should we hurt ourselves, there would be no whining or complaining.

I loved this attitude.  I loved that toughness and physically pushing oneself were valued.  I loved that we were allowed to do it even though we were part of a tour.  In America, I have no doubt we would have been managed much more closely and had our choices limited by rules and guidelines.  I loved the expectation that I would be held accountable for my own behavior.  That the consequences of my actions, whether good or bad, were mine to own.

When we discussed this attitude with several older New Zealanders, they scoffed and said the younger generation no longer believed in personal accountability; that the toughness of their generation and those before was not found in today’s softer Kiwi.  I’m not sure I believe this although we did notice the only warning signs we saw were posted at the Fox Glacier, which only opened to the public a year ago.  On the other hand, our two guides were young New Zealanders and they were tough as nails.  I can’t imagine them ever being whiny, blame placing, softies.

Our bad ass guides finally relaxing with us on the last day of the trip.
Our bad ass guides finally relaxing with us on the last day of the trip.

This rugged individualism, self reliance, and toughness brought to mind America’s Wild West, or at least Hollywood’s version of it.  I imagine John Wayne would have been quite content living on New Zealand’s South Island.