Start: Hot Springs, South Dakota
End: Rapid City, South Dakota
Mileage today/cumulative: 74 / 1,609
Elevation Ascended: 5,617′
Weather: Sunny, 74° at start; sunny, 93° at finish 3D Relive Video (approx. 1 minute)
There really aren’t adequate words to describe today’s ride but, hopefully, photos will do it some justice. Great climbing, nice temperatures, good roads and amazing things to see at every turn. We made virtually no eastbound progress today because we headed north for tons of cool stuff! The morning began by riding through Wind Cave National Park, where we were greeted by prairie dogs. They were everywhere and even I, with my hearing loss, could hear them barking up a storm at us. Then, we were lucky enough to come across a small herd of bison making their way across the road. The Wind Cave bison are a herd of 250–400 American bison. It is believed to be one of only four free roaming and genetically pure herds on public lands in North America. From there, it was into the Black Hills National Forest on our way to the Crazy Horse Memorial and Mt. Rushmore, where a lot of strangers asked about our ride and offered words of encouragement. The entire day was simply spectacular.
Tomorrow we resume our ride eastward to Wall, South Dakota, home of the kinda famous Wall Drugs. Cheesy souvenirs await!
Our regular gang before rolling out this morning. Deana, an ABB staff member, is wearing the infamous duck on her helmet.Another National Park checked off the list!Hmmm. This was an understatement. See below…Why did the bison cross the road? Because he’s enormous and he can do whatever he wants to.Bison in Wind Cave National Park, early morning. Photo credit Martin Stabler.Bison herd in Wind Cave National Park. They are HUGE.Prairie dogs barking at us in Wind Cave. Photo credit Martin Stabler.South Dakota humor.Crazy Horse Memorial. It has been under construction since 1948. If it’s ever completed, he will be riding his horse and pointing into the distance. Photo credit ABB staff.Somebody had a bad case of helmet hair… and I promised my Mom a photo of me without a helmet and sunglasses.Team Pea selfie at a very cool place.Team Pea photobombed by George Washington.Hot Wife hanging out with the boys.Just spending time with four important guys.
Start: Lusk, Wyoming
End: Hot Springs, South Dakota
Mileage today/cumulative: 93 / 1,535
Elevation Ascended: 3,209′
Weather: Sunny, 75° at start; sunny, 102° at finish 3D Relive Video (approx. 1 minute)
First of all, thanks for all of the comments and words of encouragement as we make our way to the Atlantic Ocean. We always look forward to reading comments when we wake up and, again, when we get a few minutes of down time before dinner. Our riding days are very regimented with the ABB staff telling us when to eat breakfast, load luggage, and depart on our bikes. On the arrival end, they schedule dinner, “rap” (when we get feedback about the day’s ride and our route sheet for the next day), and mechanics hour for any bike issues that need attention. When we’re not doing those things or riding our bikes for miles and miles, we’re cleaning our bikes, checking tires, packing or unpacking luggage, and cleaning ourselves up. The daily drill feels a little bit like being in the Army but nobody yells at us and we don’t have to make our bed.
We knew that today’s ride was going to be long and hot, so after my touch of heat exhaustion yesterday we changed our strategy a bit. We rolled out with our regular group but not too long after we started, they stopped to take photos but Bev and I continued on. We just needed to ride at our own speed and, by being super efficient at the SAG stops, reduce the total time spent in scorching heat. I was still feeling the effects of yesterday’s ride for the first 50 miles but after that, my body seemed to reset itself and I felt strong again for the last half of the day. Bev says that something happened when I crossed the South Dakota state line and suddenly she was the one trying to hang on. I was just happy to bounce back.
The highlight of the day was crossing into South Dakota, the fourth state on our ten state, two country trek. Their state welcome sign is pretty cool and their roads, at least for today, have wide, clean shoulders to ride on. The state line was also where we entered the Buffalo Gap National Grasslands, which were beautiful and expansive, segueing from the plains of Wyoming. We also had a nice visit from a South Dakota Sheriff’s deputy at our second SAG stop. He stopped by to see what a bunch of criminals in spandex were up to, loitering about in funny shoes, drinking Gatorade, and eating pretzel sticks, peanut butter, and fig bars for the 21st consecutive day. Chris, our blind rider, was introduced to Deputy Steve and we were all relieved when Chris shook Steve’s hand instead of accidentally reaching for his sidearm. Deputy Steve didn’t think to ask how a blind man was cycling through his state.
Some of our fellow insane riders talked about adding seven voluntary miles to today’s ride so that they could claim three consecutive riding days of 100+ miles. We opted to ride an extra half mile, straight to Dairy Queen, where we ate Chocolate Cherry Chunk Blizzards because it was 102 degrees and we still have some God-given sense. Tomorrow we ride through Wind Cave National Park and the Black Hills National Forest, which include prairie dogs, the Crazy Horse Memorial and Mount Rushmore! Lots of climbing for another epic day.
Wyoming plains. Photo credit Martin Stabler.The White Wolf Saloon in Douglas, Wyoming. Can you spot me on the left next to the drinking white wolf? Booze Alan is on the right. We’re sure that the Welcome Bikers sign wasn’t for us.If you stayed at the Covered Wagon Motel in Lusk, Wyoming, the wifi was useless but you were in luck if you needed to charge your Tesla. Go figure.The Rawhide Days parade, Lusk, Wyoming. Photo credit Martin Stabler.Really sorry that we missed the 15 minute parade. Photo credit Martin Stabler.Welcome to South Dakota, Team Pea!The landscape began to change from Wyoming plains to South Dakota grassland. Photo credit Martin Stabler.A coal train in South Dakota. We also saw a few in Wyoming. Photo credit Martin Stabler.Deputy Steve checking on the notorious Spandex Gang.Feeling stronger and smiling big in South Dakota!
Start: Casper, Wyoming
End: Lusk, Wyoming
Mileage today/cumulative: 107 / 1,442
Elevation Ascended: 2,800′
Weather: Sunny, 70° at start; sunny, 92° at finish 3D Relive Video (approx. 1 minute)
We spent Day 19 yesterday trying to relax and stay cool in Casper, Wyoming. It was our second rest day and marked the end of another leg of this crazy adventure, leaving only three more to go. By my calculation, that puts us 40% of the way there. This rest day was much like the first one way back in Boise, Idaho except that Boise is a thriving city and Casper is definitely not. A trip to the laundromat, massages, a trip to a local bike shop, and a stop at Wells Fargo to get cash and share some kindness with a teller. The highlight was a real Wyoming steak dinner and a couple of bottles of red wine with five of our new friends. We will try to call upon the memory of that fine dining experience for the next week as we ride through a culinary wasteland.
Today’s ride (Day 20) was tough. We left Casper at 7am, headed toward Lusk, Wyoming, and it was already getting warm. We passed the “Kum and Go” convenience store on the way out of town, wondered if anyone market-tested the name, and then decided it’s just Casper, Wyoming. From there, we passed through the quaint town of Douglas, which was the last sign of civilization for another 60 miles, except for Lost Springs, population four. Bev rode strong today but I only felt good for a very short stretch and really struggled for the last 50 miles. Bev “pulled” me for those hard miles, getting me to Lusk with lots of hard pedaling and encouragement. There were big doings in Lusk with their Rawhide Days parade, which, at 15 minutes long, was the shortest parade anyone had reported seeing. We missed it because I was busy recovering from the ride by laying on the bed and rehydrating. I’m hoping that we both feel strong tomorrow on the way to Hot Springs, South Dakota and into our fourth state.
Buffalo art in the Casper, WY Wells Fargo.Our pace line in the early miles today. Everyone was focused on just getting it done today. Photo credit ABB Staff.We’re still in Beef Country. Photo credit Alan Tucker.Team Pea with Bev pulling me to Lusk, Wyoming. If the coal train had been going our way, I might have jumped on it. Photo credit Alan TuckerOur nice little motel in Lusk, WY.
Start: Riverton, Wyoming
End: Casper, Wyoming
Mileage today/cumulative: 120 / 1,335
Elevation Ascended: 2,753
Weather: Sunny, 65° at start; sunny, 92° at finish 3D Relive Video (approx. 1 minute)
Today’s 120 mile ride was the longest of the entire tour and it was definitely a day to be riding with a group to share the load and take your mind off of the desolate landscape. There was one establishment between Riverton and Casper, about 60 miles into the ride. It was an odd store/bar/motel called the Bright Spot and it was located in the ‘town” of Hiland, population 10. Yes, ten. This business has no reason to exist, yet it is there in the middle of nowhere. I met the woman who owns it and learned that the lounge has been there since 1921. She bought it seven years ago when she moved from Casper, which she left because “it’s too crowded.” The lounge has four or five stools in about 300 sad square feet. It had one television, tuned to The Price is Right. No beers on tap and they discontinued Taco Tuesday at the end of 2016. Maybe because there are only ten people living in Hiland, Wyoming. Just guessing. We all bought sodas and probably doubled her revenue for an average Thursday.
Our friend Deb, while riding with another group today, encountered a local man who claimed to be a former Army sniper. He told Deb that the Army asked him to train soldiers to become snipers but he declined because if the current generation “steps in dog shit, they have to use the internet to find out what to do.” We are totally stealing that line.
We also saw antelope today, causing most of the riders in our pace line to sing Home On the Range more than once. It was that kind of day.
Tomorrow is rest day #2 – hooray! Saturday we head to Lusk, Wyoming where we’ll get to experience the Rawhide Days parade!
Morning on the open road to Casper WY.Antelope! (well, technically, pronghorn but often referred to as antelope) Photo credit: DebOur pace line group taking a butt break.Part of our group enjoying a quick lunch stop at The Bright Spot.Cyclists increased the population by five fold today.
Start: Dubois, Wyoming
End: Riverton, Wyoming
Mileage today/cumulative: 80 / 1,215
Elevation Ascended: 1,470
Weather: Sunny, 65° at start; sunny, 95° at finish 3D Relive Video (approx. 1 minute)
Fast and furious sums up today’s ride. Eighty miles with an average speed of just over twenty miles per hour. Neither of us could believe it when we saw our stats for the day. The elevation profile was kind, with a net descent and only a couple of steady inclines. Most of all, we kept a pretty good pace line with a core group of five riders, including ourselves. It was another fun day in the saddle!
We gladly left Dubois, a town everyone will remember for at least a few more days due to the GMO mosquitoes that bit everyone in places one wouldn’t think possible. Add anti-itch cream to the list of things applied to the butt. However, before departing that town with poor internet and well fed bugs, we met an older man who is also riding across the country. He carries all of his own gear and camps along the way or stays in friendly churches that accommodate self-supporting riders. His bike weighs 40 pounds and he hauls 50 pounds of gear. That’s doing it the hard way.
Since cresting the Continental Divide yesterday, the terrain has changed dramatically. In the early miles today, we saw red rock formations and buttes that have been formed over the millennia and reminded me of old John Ford western films. From there, we rolled into more range land with open skies. Some riders reported seeing a few antelope but I think they were jackalopes that escaped from Dubois.
Tomorrow we ride 119 miles to Casper, where we’ll enjoy our second rest day on Friday. There is absolutely nothing but open range between here and there. It’s going to be a long, hot day but we’re feeling stronger than we did seventeen days ago when we left Astoria.
Before today’s photos, a few more from yesterday’s ride from Jackson to Dubois, courtesy of our friend and talented photographer, Martin Stabler.
One last look at the Tetons from yesterday’s ride.Team Pea public display of affection yesterday at the Continental Divide. SMOOCH!Oh, you want us to be serious?On the way into Dubois yesterday. Red rock, blue sky.
And now, photos from today’s ride from Dubois WY to Riverton WY…
A quiet morning riding out of Dubois.A few miles out of Dubois and the red rock was beautiful!The scene across the road from our second SAG stop. We agreed that this is what Wyoming is supposed to look like.
