Start: Jackson Hole, Wyoming
End: Dubois, Wyoming
Mileage today/cumulative: 54 / 1,135
Elevation Ascended: 3,031
Weather: Sunny, 60° at start; sunny, 85° at finish 3D Relive Video (approx. 1 minute)
We’ve arrived in Dubois, Wyoming and stepped back in time. Our hotel uses actual keys. There are no stop lights or stop signs on the Main Street. There is one bank (Wells Fargo, of course). At the local saloon, the non-smokers drink outside. And, finally, internet service here is one step below AOL dial-up and they could really use a cell tower. We’ll see if this post gets published sometime tonight.
Our planned 84 mile ride was reduced to 54 miles due to some permit issues that ABB was unable to resolve with the National Park Service. Long story that makes no sense (as in everything political), but new management at the Wyoming DOT changed rules on commercial operators seeking permits to ride through Grand Teton National Park even though we would have been riding bicycles on a bike path and state road for all of 30 miles. Nobody complained much – we still had beautiful views of the Tetons and we didn’t have to deal with Fourth of July traffic in the park.
The ABB staff shuttled us from our hotel in Jackson to a spot immediately beyond the park entrance. We saddled up and had a fantastic ride. Six mile warmup, a sixteen mile climb up to the Continental Divide, where we peaked at over 9,500′, the highest spot on our entire tour, followed by an exhilarating non-technical nine mile descent. Once we reached the bottom, strong tailwinds pushed us for the last 20+ miles into Dubois. We took a lot of photos throughout the day – it was that kind of ride.
Happy Fourth of July from Wyoming!
Team Pea at the start of today’s ride with the Tetons as a backdrop.Greg coming up behind Marty Stabler and Booze Alan at the start of today’s climb, leaving the Tetons behind us.Blue sky, smooth empty road, and mountains all around = big smiles!Perfect for bike riding – in July!Continental Divide: conquered!Hot Wife was a BEAST on today’s climb. She made it look easy!Team Pea riding high on the Continental Divide!A store we stopped at in the middle of nowhere.Beauty everywhere!Sometimes the handmade welcome marquees are the best ones.Requires no explanation…Dubois WY has few modern conveniences but they’ve got “the world’s largest jackalope exhibit”. Check “ride a jackalope” off of my bucket list.
Start: Idaho Falls, Idaho
End: Jackson Hole, Wyoming
Mileage today/cumulative: 90 / 1,081
Elevation Ascended: 5,482
Weather: Sunny, 55° at start; sunny, 79° at finish 3D Relive Video (approx. 1 minute)
Today was one helluva ride. When we registered for this trip a year ago, we looked at the itinerary and immediately began looking forward to this day. This must be how the pros feel, anticipating a crucial stage in the Tour de France as soon as the stages are announced. We’re just like them except that we’re riding twice as far as they do, we don’t get roads closed for us, and they don’t have to eat breakfast at a Best Western. We knew that this would be an epic day and it sure lived up to it.
The first 25 miles were a bit of a slog on a slight grade and a stiff headwind. The terrain began to change from flat agricultural to rolling hills. It was pretty but everyone was heads down due to the wind. The serious climbing began at mile 45, slowly ascending into alpine mountains. Fifteen miles later, we reached Pine Creek Summit (6,764′) before descending nearly seven miles to the Town of Victor. This beautiful descent gave us our first unobstructed view of the Tetons and it was breathtaking. We quickly refueled in Victor before beginning the long eleven mile climb up Teton Pass. We stopped to take photos at the Wyoming state line mid-way up, then continued on to the top. The first nine miles averaged a 3-6% grade; the last two miles were a steady 10-12% incline. It was not the most difficult climb we’ve ever done but those last couple of miles were definitely mind over matter. The views at the Teton Pass Summit (8,431′) were spectacular but we were anxious to get down because we knew that the descent would be hairy – and it was. We had been cautioned to inspect our tires and brakes at the summit and control our speed on the 5.5 mile technical descent with a 10% grade. Holy cow that was steep – neither of us had ever experienced a descent like that and it was nerve wracking. We were thrilled to reach the bottom and cruise into Jackson Hole.
In one incredible day we added a new state to our States We’ve Biked In map and we surpassed 1,000 miles to date on this trip. The miles are rolling by so quickly.
The early miles out of Idaho Falls. Photo credit Martin SpanglerOur first good look at the Tetons Range. The Grand Teton is to the left.Crossing the Snake River.Welcome to Wyoming, Team Pea!When the road is going up, this is NOT what you want to see.Happy to be at Teton Pass Summit!I lost my mind at the summit and forgot that I had to ride DOWN the other side.Team Pea in front of the iconic (albeit in disrepair) Teton Pass Summit sign. Yonder (way down in the valley) is Jackson Hole.Half way down the descent. Yikes!Moose sighting in downtown Jackson Hole.Bev under the antler arch at the Jackson Hole Town Square.
Start: Pocatello, Idaho End: Idaho Falls, Idaho
Mileage today/cumulative: 67 / 991
Elevation Ascended: 726
Weather: Sunny, 59° at start; sunny, 79° at finish 3D Relive Video (approx. 1 minute)
What a difference a day makes. Yesterday: head winds and crappy roads. Today: little wind and nice farm roads. There was a slight dreaded east wind when we left Pocatello this morning but we tricked it and headed north toward Idaho Falls. This was also our first day with a total elevation gain of less than one thousand feet. We were pretty happy about that after yesterday’s slog, so everyone in our group agreed to an active recovery pace today – not too fast, not too slow, keeping our heart rates low and comfortably spinning our legs. We were all looking ahead to tomorrow’s ride over Teton Pass (elevation 8,431′), so nobody wanted to go hard on today’s flat stage. It was a low key and entertaining ride, especially when our friend Nikki taught Bev the Potato Song and my wife kept tormenting, oops, I mean serenading us with the chorus.It goes like this. You’re welcome.
Today was our last full day in Idaho. We didn’t have any expectations about this state, other than potatoes. There are a lot of those but we also saw the Snake River, beautiful gorges, cool waterfalls, and a wide variety of livestock. We met very nice people who gave us lots of encouragement, even while openly questioning our sanity. We’ll put Idaho in the rear view mirror tomorrow afternoon but we won’t soon forget it (at least until Minnesota or wherever we’ll be in another 14 days…).
Wyoming and the Grand Tetons await, so it’s time to rest up. Tomorrow is guaranteed to be epic!
Our cool pace line group from Pocatello to Idaho Falls.Setting a nice casual pace on a beautiful Idaho morning.Dave Stabler, AKA Super Dave, who was also a Pulitzer finalist for his work at The Oregonian. I’m trying to pull everyone back up to him.Team Pea selfie at Idaho Falls.Team Pea in Idaho Falls.At Idaho Falls with our friend “Booze Alan” from Austin, TX.We’re not sure this restaurant was prepared for locusts to descend at lunchtime. Hey – who ordered the steak sandwich?Both hands on the bike ma’am. Safety first.
Start: Burley, Idaho
End: Pocatello, Idaho
Mileage today/cumulative: 87 / 924
Elevation Ascended: 2,397
Weather: Sunny, 64° at start; sunny, 81° at finish 3D Video
While we waited to pay our lunch bill yesterday, a nice woman asked us a few questions about our trip. She was very interested in what we were doing in Burley, Idaho, unlike her husband, who was a ranch man of few words and appeared disinterested. He stood about 6’4″, large and solid as an ox, with weathered skin. When he learned that we were riding to New Hampshire, he said, in a Sam Elliott voice, “why, you’ve just begun”‘ then for good measure, added “you’re in the real thing now.” No explanation. No smile. No well wishes. Just that comment.
After today’s ride, I believe the rancher. This was a get your head straight, put it down, and get it done kind of day. Flat, straight roads without a turn for 20+ miles and nothing to see but more damn potato plants and sagebrush. About ten miles on the Interstate and who knows how many on the frontage road. Even the Relive video couldn’t make it look pretty. Headwinds for every one of the 87 miles. Two miles of dirt road where the State of Idaho tore up the old asphalt, grated it, then were too damn lazy to repave it. Halfway through that stretch I was yelling “What the f*** Idaho? It’s called asphalt!” as my arms were being jack-hammered to a pulp keeping my bike upright. Bev got through it faster than I did but she was also just trying to remain upright as she powered through. The road condition was new to the ABB staff since last year and by the time anyone arrived upon it, there was no detour available. We’re in the real thing now. We both said it was one of the harder days so far and we’re looking forward to climbing Teton Pass in a couple of days. The mountain stages are nearing!
These are NEVER a good sign. Photo credit Hao-Tong YanThe remains of our pace line group, from L to R: Greg, Alan, Marty (plus Bev), with 15 long miles to goMiles and miles of this today. Photo credit Hao-Tong YanTeam Pea plus our pal Alan, headed toward a grain silo. Photo credit Marty Stabler.
Start: Twin Falls, Idaho
End: Burley, Idaho
Mileage today/cumulative: 46 / 837
Elevation Ascended: 1,824
Weather: Sunny, 60° at start; sunny, 78° at finish 3D Video
Today’s ride was oddly short due to the fact that we’re riding in the middle of nowhere and there are a limited number of towns with hotels. We could have avoided this by signing up with a tour company that pitches tents for you anywhere but that wasn’t gonna happen. We love having a hot shower and comfortable bed every night – and always a place to get a cold beer!
We’d become accustomed to nice tailwinds the past few days and were hoping for more of the same today. Alas, it was not meant to be. Yesterday we had a few five-mile splits averaging around 25mph+ on flat roads. Today we were lucky to maintain 15mph on similar terrain due to strong headwinds for the entire ride. The only thing to do is make yourself as small as possible and spin faster in a lower gear.
Our planned route was only 39 miles with the option of adding seven miles with side trips to Shoshone Falls and the Twin Falls that the city is named for. We went to both (they’re the parts on the video where it appears that we’re riding into the Snake River Canyon). The Shoshone Falls were, by far, the most impressive, and we even caught a double rainbow over them. From there, we were about a mile upstream from Evel Knievel’s jump site. Each person in our riding group could remember his failed attempt to jump the gorge in a steam-powered rocket (1974) and for a few of them, Evel Knievel was their childhood hero. We were all disappointed that the jump site itself was not accessible by bicycle but it didn’t keep us from staring at the gorge in disbelief and wondering what it must have been like to witness the attempt. Evel Knievel was a brilliant self-promoter and one fearless dude.
After leaving Shoshone Falls, we continued on to the Twin Falls, which turned out to be a misnomer because one of the “twins” has been permanently dammed up and there is really only one fall at Twin Falls and it’s not particularly impressive. They should be required to rename the city of Twin Falls to Solo Fall.
From there, it was headwinds through miles of barley, corn, hay, alfalfa, and potatos. The alfalfa had been freshly cut and made my allergies miserable. It’s no wonder I’ve never been a fan of the stuff. The wheat fields are beautiful and each time we ride by them, someone starts singing “amber waves of grain” from America The Beautiful. We’re riding from sea to shining sea, we’ve begun to see spacious skies, the purple mountain majesty are only a few days away, and the fruited plain lies beyond them. We’re basically experiencing the entire famous first verse of the song from the seats of our bicycles.
Finally, we encountered our first “rural traffic jam” when a cow got loose and was running down the county road we were on. She kept successfully evading the two ranchers and a large SUV that were trying to corral her but we were eventually able to continue on after she ran down another road. It was a comical scene because that cow tasted freedom and wasn’t going to be fenced in again without a fight. Two ranchers, a loose cow, and five bicycle riders in Lycra shorts on an Idaho road… there must be a joke in there.
Tomorrow we ride on to Pocatello and resume our typical mileage. We slowly increase our elevation over the next few days before we conquer the Tetons.
Shoshone FallsTeam Pea at Shoshone Falls – another great moment!The view of the gorge looking toward Evel Knievel’s jump site.The misnamed Twin Falls. You can see the dam to the right of the one and only waterfall, where the “Twin” used to flow.Amber waves of grain. Photo credit Marty Stabler.Cyclist in barley. Photo credit Marty Stabler.Cow on the loose!!!Bev at today’s only SAG stop.
